The Southwest Coast Path - Hartland Quay to Penzance
- Aug 7
- 4 min read
From August 6 to 25, 2025 I will be hiking the next traunch of the SW Coast Path. This time about 150 miles from Hartland Quay to Penzance. The weather is expected to be in the high 70s/low 80s and pretty fare. I decided to do this now for two reasons. I need some training before hiking in Corsica with Lisa and the girls and I happen to have the time in England. Now Chris and I will be spending less time in the UK for tax reasons and I'm over halfway done with this long coastal walk. My goal is to finish it while I still can.
Starting in Hartland Quay has its own challenges. It is very remote and difficult to get to. I had to take a train from Liphook to Guildford, then switch lines and travel Reading/Exeter St. Davids/Barnstaple. This was then followed by a 90 minute bus journey to Hartland and finally followed by a taxi ride from Hartland to Hartland Quay on the coast. This is an enjoyable trip if all the public transportation works. It didn't on 6 August. I left at 9am and finally arrived at 6:45pm.
I should have known when the Liphook train was 10 minutes late. I wasn't overly worried beccause I had plenty of time in Guildford. In Guildford I change trains from Southwestern rail to Great Western Rail. I actually enjoy Great Western more because their trains are a bit nicer and you get tea/snacks when you go first class on their long distance lines. The train to Reading was on time and a nice journey, not overly busy.
In Reading I picked up the long distance train. When I arrived it was 15 minutes late which immediately caused issues because I only had 5 minutes in Exeter St David's (EXT) for my connection. This further caused issues because my bus connection was at 3 and I would miss it, potentially meaning I'd have to wait for a bus until 6:40, but I'm getting ahead of myself.
I spoke to a "member of staff" and they had the gaul to say that the train would probably make up the delay - really.... Anyway, I had enough time to call the bus company and find out that the bus actually arrived at 16:40 instead of 15:00, thus winning $1 from Chris who insisted it was 15:00. This gave me breathing space. I called my taxi driver and told him I wouldn't be arriving until 6pm. He did offer to pick me up at Barnstaple (forego the bus journey), for only £45. I thanked him and said I'd see him at Hartland (where the bus journey ended).
The long distance trains allow for assigned seats, but today the seating system wasn't working since the train configuration had changed last minute. My seat had been at the end of the train and now I was directed to the front of the train where it was empty. So I shlept to the front and was rewarded by having 4 seats and a table to myself.
On the platform I was surprised to see the number of young people with packs and gear and thought the SW Coast Path was going to be incredibly crowded - an assumption I made after having just finished the Camino de Santiago where that would have been the case. The man next to me told me these people were all going to a concert in NewQuay in Cornwall and wouldn't be getting off at my stop. I was relieved as the EXT train is small and it would be rammed if all these people were trying to go to the same place. The delay was probably due to the long time it took to get all these people on board.
Outside of first class it was so crowded people were sitting on the floor with luggage - one has to wonder how the train is allowed to have so many passengers and if that wouldn't have an affect on safety in case of issues. It was so packed they couldn't bring trolleys down. We, however, did get our tea and snacks which was very nice.
We finally got to EXT 25 minutes late and I had missed my connection, but the other came not too long after. I was amazed I had a place for my bag and to sit down. Then we sat. and sat. and sat. We were waiting so others could make the connection. Then we were told the signal was having problems. Then we were told the train was canceled. Eye Roll. Thank goodness bus was at 16:40 and I would still be able to make the connection.
As you can imagine, there was a mad rush once the 1519 train came in. I fought 2 bikes to find a place for my suitcase and forced a lady to move her bag so I could sit down. We actually left on time and arrived at 1627 - plenty of time to make my bus. I did not have time to walk to the bus station, so picked it up at the train station at 1645.
The bus journey started out ok, but was also delayed by another 20 minutes. Meanwhile, I'm calling my taxi driver to say I'll be another 20 minutes later....
Finally - I meet the taxi driver for the 20 minute drive to Hartland Quay Hotel - £24!
Hartland Quay is remote and rugged.
The Hotel has been there for about 300 years. Several movies where filmed in the main "street" (between the buildings). I hadn't heard of any of the movies. The Quay was used for shipping until the railroad came to Hartland and it went into disuse. I couldn't actually find the quay, but the scenery is beautiful and wild. This area is also known for shipwrecks, some of which are still visible at low tide (I couldn't see them either).
In true british fashion, the hotel is above a pub and the hotel is a rabbit warren of different levels and stair cases. No lifts. So I literally got my steps in, and upper body workout, schlepping my suitcase all over creation until I found the room with a view of the sea
Dinner was uneventful - soup and sweet potato fries (and a local pint!).
A lovely place for a sunset.
I found your day to be quite stressful. The thought of you lugging your bag reminds me of one of the hostels on TMB - made me laugh although I recall NOT laughing at that time. Beautiful sunset.