The Grand Traverse
- 2 days ago
- 13 min read
March 19-24, 2026.
The Grand Traverse is a guided hike organized by Ultimate Hikes. Ultimate Hikes owns the concession for access to the Fjordland area on the West side of the South Island of New Zealand. You can either go as an independent and stay in common huts, or as guided and stay in "more luxurious" accommodation.
The Grand Traverse combines both the Greenstone Track (3 nights) and the Routeburn Track (2 nights).
We found out that this will be one of the last opportunities to hike the Grand Traverse in an "organized" way due to politics between Ultimate Hikes and the Maori Indians. The Greenstone Track is over land owned by the Maori. Ultimate Hikes has offered to upgrade lodging in this section, but only if they have more than one year booking rights. The Maori have declined this, so Ultimate Hikes is pulling out. People can still book their own along this length of track, but it is a very difficult process which often leaves those interested without a hut. Anyway, we were lucky enough to do one of the last ones.
In summary: Hiking quality: 10/10 (some of this was some of the hardest hiking I've done), Food: 8/10, Accomodation 5/10 (first 3 nights were dormitory, last 2 nights were great), Weather: 10/10 (Sunny and warm all days), Bugs: 1/10 (I now have about 20 sandfly bites just on one hand, not to mention other hand and both feet). Last organized/guided hike until July 2026.
March 19 - Itinerary: Meet at 7:30 for a 2 hour bus ride via a short pit stop at Glenorchy to the trailhead. From there hike along the Greenstone Track 11 miles to Steele Creek Lodge.
We have three guides: Ben, Ollie and Jenna. Ben is 6-6" and if you look closely you'll see he's standing much further down that incline than the others.
We are hiking with 19 other people, most of whom are either from Australia or New Zealand. The average age is late 50s with the exception of Greg, Angus and Bella. Greg is 35, a single hiker and from Canada. Angus and Bella are both from the UK and are in Australia for a year's work exchange/experience during their studies. There are several transplanted people from the UK now living in Australia who are all doctors (anesthesiologies, GP, oncologist, mid-wife). There is one fellow who is from the US, but was born/raised in Connecticut. He is married to a Kiwi and has been living in New Zealand for 20+ years. He's let his US passport lapse, but has never renounced his US citizenship officially and also hasn't been filing US tax returns. Not sure what all that means if the IRS finds him. There's Sue who has tattoos over most of her body, still not sure why. There are twin sisters (60+ years old) and their spouses, one of which was a mountain climbing instructor, the other, Garth, did something with mining. Garth managed to sprain his ankle the first day, but persevered until the end, not doing any of the option hikes. One of the twins was medevaced day 4 - still not sure why, but I hope we don't get whatever it was. There was a group shot taken the last day, but we don't have it yet - takes about a week - so I'll upload it here once it arrives.
The drive was in a bus converted for difficult terrain, but nice on the inside. (That is Barb, one of the twins, boarding the bus. I don't think she
along/around Lake Wakatipu which was very pretty with the clouds in the morning. Glenorchy is a rather sleepy village, but they have interesting smoking signs.
We didn't start our hike until about 10am. It was 11.2 miles and 2,356 elevation gain.
Thankfully there were no optional hikes on this long day.
Today was a beautiful hike through the forest. The track isn't quite as well curated as the Milford. There were trees across the path that weren't very easy to get over and a lot of tree roots. Parts were rather boggy, but we were lucky in that usually there were strategically placed stones and it hadn't rained in quite awhile. There were also quite a few rock falls which meant going across uneven rocky places.
We had lunch at a shelter and it turned out to be catered by Ferg Bakery, so that satisfied my curiousity. They had capability to boil water, so I had my instant mushrooom soup.
There were some lovely waterfalls
At the second break we met a tomtit that really liked my backpack and Chris' boot.
There were some beautiful fungi along the way
The smaller drama for the day was crossing the river. There was a span of about 5 feet where the water would come over our boots. This was before lunch and we really didn't want to walk for 5+ miles in wet boots, especially when the hut for the night didn't have a drying room. We were pressured not to take our boots off, but insisted on doing so and thank goodness for that. We had dry feet for the rest of the day (and the next).
The big drama for today was that the bunks were not reserved in this damn hut and everything was dormitory style. I didn't want Chris in the top bunk because he's been known to fall out of bunks and that's all we needed. Like the old joke goes about the bear and the guy tying his tennis shoes, we just needed to walk faster than everyone else on our trek to get the choice of bunks we wanted. The last quarter of the day was a very fast hike for us. We got in front of everyone except Angus and Bella,
but they were too slow in untying their boots (not allowed in the hut), so we got our choice of sleeping arrangement. Thankfully there was a smaller room with only 7 bunks (the 8th was used for storage) and we got Chris situated. I was set to take the upper bunk, but then came to find out I couldn't get up safely - there was no way to get leverage to get up and the rungs were very painful on my feet. A supreme being was looking out for me because no one took the lower bunk under the "storage" bunk, so I was set for that night. (Yellow arrows is where we ended up sleeping. Pink arrow is where I was going to sleep.)
Also thankfully we had only young people (Greg, Angus, Bella) in our dorm room who didn't snore and had reasonable digestive systems so it was a quiet night. There was no way to charge any electronics and the generator was off from 10pm to 7:30am.
Here's the hut and the view
Dinner was spaghetti bolognese, a salad, with a brownie for dessert. I gave my brownie to the guy from Connecticut who was greatly appreciative.
Chris was able to capture a time-lapse "sunset"
We went out to see the stars which were pretty impressive. That's not a shooting star - it was my inability not to move for 10 seconds....
March 20 - Steele Creek Lodge to McKeller Lodge (where we stayed for 2 nights). McKeller had a drying room and a way to charge electrical devices, but was also on a generator, so no power from 10pm to about 7:30am.
The weather was again excellent. The hike to McKeller was 8.52 miles, classified as "hard", with elevation gain of 1,316 feet.
Not much of a sunrise
I don't have many food photos or preparation photos because my phone was normally charging at these times. Here is the kitchen area. Also there was a wood burner in most of the huts.
I opted for porridge for breakfast which was pretty runny.
The day started across this dodgy 1 person bridge. that's Angus and Bella judging Chris' crossing.
Early in the day there was a 2 minute side trip to see a gorge
It was another lovely forest walk which was boggy at times and normally had strategically placed stones to help passage.
There were some lovely alpine flowers. These were edible and tasted like blueberries
and fungi
Tea was in a wooded area immediately after a boulder field
Lunch was in open hut up steep hill to side of track. Not quite scrambling, but almost. This supposedly is similar to tomorrow’s optional hike up to the lookout. Somehow I forgot to take any photos at lunch, but imagine an open sided structure in the forest with facility for boiling water. I again supplemented my PB&J with instant mushroom soup.
Afternoon break felt like it came quickly and was in a lovely sunny glade. It offered a last look at the Greenstone Valley (until tomorrow's optional hike).
Next drama - getting to the McKeller Hut before anyone else to claim our space. Things were again dormatory style. We high tailed it the last 90 minutes to get to cabin first and claim bunk. We beat everyone and the terraine wasn't super easy either - a lot of roots and uneven track. We were successful only to find out bunks were assigned tonight.
We were assigned to a room with "lucky" Bella and Angus.
They were kind to offer us both bottom bunks, but we decided to bunk together because Chris didn't like the idea of sleeping under someone he didn't know. He took the top bunk (even though I offered) because it had a railing and was easier to access. Poor kids had two oldies with them. Chris was snoring so loudly I couldn't stop him using my leg to push up on his mattress. It did make a differences to be able to charge electric devices when generator was on.
Here are the public areas inside the hut: The main area, dining area, lunch making area.
There were facilities to do laundry and dry clothes.
Dinner was tomato soup, fried fish/tartar sauce potatoes, green beans and pavlova cake (Cake went to the guy from Connecticut again).
I passed out at 8pm, got up at 10pm for the bathroom and forgot to go look at the stars. Maybe tomorrow night....
March 21 - According to the itinerary, this is a day off. There is an optional hike to a lookout. This is a very steep hike, but we had nothing better to do....
3.43 miles with 1,695 feet of elevation gain and classified as "hard".
Today is first day of spring at home, but it's the first day of autumn here.
Our side trip took us up to a lookout where we could see both the Greenstone and Hollyford Valleys. We were up and down about 30 minutes faster than anticipated.
Breakfast was the normal fare. I had porridge and a piece of toast. There were poached eggs on offer which actually looked quite good and I was sorry I didn’t have one.
The weather was great again, but very cold in the morning. Most of the group went which was a surprise to the guides.
The way was steep, full of tree roots and very big and uneven steps moving up the hill. We stopped pretty often (about every quarter mile to look at the view. It was hard, but very satisfying when we got above the tree line.
It was quite amusing to be almost to our goal and seeing the group at the front going back along the path - they missed a left turn. I was glad to be at the back of the front group. These are views of the Greenstone Valley. Here (right photo) you can see our lodge.
We enjoyed the view and the weather for about 15 minutes
and then I started down to avoid the crush along the same path in reverse. I was able to get some photos of alpine plants.
I was actually quite lucky to be on my own all the way down and I could take my time along the treacherous path. At one point I heard and saw a parrot - a Kea?.
I made it back number 3 and about 5 minutes before those behind me. I somehow managed to catch my ankle which resulted in a rather big bruise. I don't remember doing it. Chris later told me I left about 20 minutes before the others. Chris came down last because he wanted some peace and quiet at the top. He didn’t get it. On the way down he also passed 4 people who stopped to look at the view on the way down.
I was back early enough to get a shower, wash clothes and read before lunch.
Lunch was a buffet - frittata or vegetable pie, several types of salad, guacamole, and chips. I took a lot of quacamole (more than my fair share and loved it. The vegetable pie I didn’t really care for.
We had a free afternoon I used for a nice nap.
Dinner was roast beef, beans, pumpkin and apple cobbler. Apple cider was my drink of choice along the entire trip.
I got up at midnight and was able to see some lovely stars - even some shooting stars.
March 22 - McKeller Lodge to the McKenzie Lodge with an optional hike up to Key Summit. It turned out to be 12.86 miles, 3375 feet elevation gain, but with lovely weather in the 70s. This was a long hard day.
The morning was nice enough along the lake side through the forest.
The morning break was almost non-existant because Chris wanted to stay towards the front of the pack. I had only about 3 minutes - about enough time to have 2 bites of an apple.
The second half of the morning wasn't bad because it was along a second lake and rather flat. Beautiful scenery again.
fungi, wild trees and birds
The side trip was before lunch, so we dropped our packs at lunch and walked up to Key Summit. this was part of the "great divide" between the two valleys (Greenstone and Hollyford).
Again, I had only about 3 minutes because Chris wanted to stay with the faster folks. I dragged myself up- thankfully it was switchbacks and a reasonable track up to the lookout.
We finally got as close to a kea as we would for the entire trip. Keas are the alpine parrot which we saw so many of 9 years ago on the Milford Track and have seen almost none of this time. We are told there are only about 5000 left.
Nothing really earth shattering to see, but the weather was lovely, there was a partial view of Lake Marion and there were some lovely peaks.
Lunch was a tuna salad and some marshmallow chocolate covered fish and some instant mushroom soup. Not the best combo. Then it was off to the McKenzie Hut.
The afternoon was uphill on a track like yesterday’s and I wasn’t mentally prepared. On top of that it was hot with not breeze so the sun got to me. This was a hard hike for me- even with the beautiful views and amazing track, I had several sense of humor failures. There was one part where the track was washed out and we had to use stairs and ropes to get around (think of outward bound) and I was exhausted (no photos).
All along all the tracks are stoat traps. These are serviced by volunteers. We met a guy servicing the traps and it turned out he was from Kansas.
Our 90 minute uphill odyssey ended at the ridge line of the amazing valley Hollyford Valley
and the 174M tall Earland Falls.
At least I was able to rest and drink some water. The fun wasn’t over yet. We continued another hour along good track and lovely views
before entering “The Orchard” section covered with Ribbonwood Trees which look a bit like cherry trees when they blossom.
and then starting undulations for about 45 minutes before starting a hazardous downhill section(no photos - it was hazardous).
We got to a better area of track that was rather flat before finally getting to the lodge.
I was never so happy to get to a lodge,
our private room with en-suite bath, have a shower and get into bed.
We went back to the lodge for a well deserved canapé/ glass of cider before dinner. Here are the public areas of the lodge.
I can’t believe no one got hurt on today’s hike.
Tonight's dinner was tomato soup, chicken breast and sticky toffee pudding which I didn't share with anyone.
I did get up to see the stars at midnight, but they weren't as good as other nights. Turns out that there was an aurora at 11pm that I just missed.
March 23 - MacKenzie Lodge to Routeburn Falls Lodge with an optional side hike to Conical Hill. Today turned out to be 8.44 miles with a 3212 elevation gain.
To be honest, today was a bit of a blur. I was exhausted and was mentally done hiking. The morning started up rather steeply through forest
to the ridge line where the views started opening up.
Our break was on a plateau
with a view of the mountains
We continued up on a reasonable track with a reasonable upward grade and saw about 5 kea in the distance.
and made it up to the 15 steps and our lunch hut at the Harris Saddle
But before lunch I was talked into going up the Conical Hill which is where I had a sense of humor failure and was, frankly, quite scared. It was all scrambling.
I made it up and down again safely and will withhold further commentary. Here are some views at the top.
There were also some beautiful alpine flowers, including edelweiss
From the top you could see the lunch hut far below
Then on the final 90 minutes to the Routeburn Falls Lodge and our last night on the track.
This was mostly downhill on a very rocky track. We passed the source of the Routeburn River and had beautiful views of the valley.
Finally we saw the Falls and the Lodge
We again had our own room
and the Lodge looked very similar to all the other Ultimate Hikes lodges
Tonight's dinner was pumpkin ravioli and a vanilla cake with chocolate which I split with Chris
The stars were visible from our room, but they weren't as spectacular as other nights, so no photos.
March 24 - Last day: Routeburn Falls Lodge to the Trail end. From there a one hour bus ride to a pub in Glenorchy and back to Queenstown. This was the same route as coming out, so no map.
This was a moderately difficult hike which was mostly downhill - 6.63 miles with 543 feet elevation gain. The weather was sunny and in the 70s.
It was a beautiful sunrise
and we started down to the valley floor along a very nice track after seeing some kea who said goodbye to us as we left the lodge.
Our break was at a river meadow - the water was cold.
and we started to see signs pointing us to the track end
This part of the track was originally excavated as a road. They eventually gave up because it was so difficult to create. That was good for us because the track became wonderful - I didn't even need poles.
We very quickly made it to our lunch stop at Forge Flat (Ben is in the photo)
which was a perfect place to get feet in the very cold river. Barb actually went in swimming, which I thought was a bit crazy.
Some final views before last river crossings
and the track's end....and just like that our final organized/guided hike was over.
We got back on the bus for the return trip
It was a single track road out of the preserve and cars were force to back up several times. I didn't think we'd ever get out of there.
Not much to report on the return journey. The stop in Glenorchy was uneventful and we unloaded at Ultimate Hikes in Queenstown.
The rest of the day we picked up our rental car (it has over 180,000 miles on the dial)
and made it over to our AirBnB outside of Queenstown where we will be staying a week.
I'll post occasionally as there might be interesting things, so expect something in a few days. I know that tomorrow we will be doing absolutely NOTHING!
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