Portreath to Hayle

August 17, 2025 From the Itinerary: Difficulty rating: Moderate-Moderate (not sure why they rated it as Moderate twice, but I guess that's a good thing). After leaving Portreath the Coast Path follows the cliffs with some beautiful views of rocky coves, such as the wonderfully named Ralph’s Cupboard, apparently a favoured smugglers spot for stashing loot. After just a couple of steep climbs the Path soon levels and walking becomes fairly straightforward. As you follow the sheer cliffs, surrounded by brightly coloured spring and summertime flowers, such as blue sheep’s bit, primroses and yellow rattle, look down to the contrastingly raw, jagged reefs below.

Seals are a common sight around the waters of Godrevy and Gwithian and sunfish and basking sharks have been spotted from the North Cliffs. The dunes behind the spectacular beach which stretches from Godrevy Point to the entrance of the Hayle estuary are also rich with wildlife.

Distance: 10.83 Weather: mid-70s, sunny, windy

Hightights:

• The views from the top of Western Hill down to the harbour of Portreath and to Western Cove and the cliff paths ahead.

Yes, this was quite a warmup walk to the top, but beautiful views and I could see the lighthouse, Hayle and St. Ives.

• The contorted rock strata of Greenbank Cove.

• Crane Castle: standing on the site of an Iron Age cliff castle, almost entirely lost to erosion, you look out to Crane Islands and to the Path ahead along the Reskajaege Downs, which are covered in swathes of wildflowers and heather in spring and summer.

• The overwhelming mass of cliff and sheer drop to the sea at Hell’s Mouth.

• Seal spotting from Navax Point, which is covered in wild flowers, pink heather and gorse in the summer months.

Yes! I saw some seals and a seagull that looked like a seal (until I took the photo and zoomed in). I was keeping my eyes open for basking sharks, but no luck.

• The National Trust have brought in a small herd of Shetland ponies to graze at the Knavocks and help maintain the habitat favoured by small birds and butterflies.

I saw the ponies, but in a completely different area.

• Godrevy Island and octagonal lighthouse (now solar-powered) is three and a half miles across St Ives Bay, and is thought to have been the inspiration for Virginia Woolf’s novel `To The Lighthouse'. The island is covered in bright flowers in springtime.

This was a lovely area and where I decided to take my break. I also enjoyed seeing the sailing ship nearby

• Spotting the guillemots, razorbills, fulmars and cormorants from the North Cliffs.

only seagulls were flying today - very windy

• The Red River which once carried the red iron oxide residue from the tin mines up the valley out to the sea at Gwithian.

It felt like the council moved the path inland a bit, possibly to save the dunes (?). I did cross the river, but it looked more like a stream and wasn't red. I was more worried about the sand dunes on the other side. there were some slate trail markers to show the way

• Gwithian and Hayle Towans: the second largest dune system in Cornwall is home to hundreds of different species of plants, butterflies, moths and glow-worms. Apparently, St Gothian's Chapel has been buried three times under the shifting sands.

There were a lot of dunes, but not nearly as nasty as a few days ago. Thankfully I missed most of it because I had to turn off to go to the hotel which was East of town.

• The 100 year-old swing bridge at the entrance to Hayle harbour.

I'll probably see this tomorrow when I walk to St. Ives because I didn't actually see the town center yet.

• The birds of Hayle Estuary. I did walk by a large pond which had quite a few birds floating around. Most looked like Canadian Geese.

• 

I know you've all been waiting to hear about the shared bathroom experience in the morning, so let me put you out of your misery. When I got up at 4am, the bathroom was available - no waiting - so I thought I'd be good until breakfast. Not quite the case when I tried to go again at about 7, but I decided I could wait until after breakfast. When I came back upstairs everyone was still at breakfast, so no issue then. Timing is, indeed, everything! Net/net - it was ok

It was a pain to try to manhandle that suitcase down the stairs. Thankfully there was a member of staff one floor down who took it the rest of the way. She was strong.

Breakfast was good this morning - yogurt, a smoothie and some toast.

The weather was ideal when I left - here's a photo of a ship's anchor in front of the hotel and the quay with the tide out, so all the boats are beached. The last photo is a look back towards town.

I think the mystery from yesterday is solved. The white Pepperpot daymark above Portreath harbour. I think it is one of the below which I did not see coming in yesterday.

Not too many photos today because they would have all been the same - beautiful coastline, rich blue water. It was a much easier hike than the recent ones. I didn't see Martin or Ellie/Jan, but I did see the 2 ladies (1 German/1 Brit) who I've seen for the last few days. I haven't really met them, other than to say hello.

The cut off to the hotel turned me off the Coastal Path pretty early and I missed the center of Hayle and the beaches (thank goodness). This went along ungly fields and I did see one bunny - too fast for a photo. The disadvantage is the wind was blocked, so it got rather hot. I knew I was going the right way because I came across a hiking group going the opposite way. The worst part of today was walking the last 500 yeards along a busy "B" road with no shoulder. When cars came I had to push into the blackberry hedges which wasn't very comfortable.

I made it to the Premier Inn at 2pm, but checkin wasn't until 3. They were going to charge me extra, so I decided to go for lunch/dinner to waste an hour. This Premier Inn is located South of the beaches and East of town in an industrial area and near a mall - not much nearby. The mall was shut because it was Sunday, so I ate at the awful place next door called Brewer's Fayre. Cheap and nasty food. I tried to choose something with fresh ingredients - hard to do there - and ended up with a chicken burrito bowl and some tomato soup. I left most of the bowl.

The room itself is cheap and clean - with an ensuite bathroom:)

I did see the mile marker for St. Ives (for tomorrow) which had been there for a very long time