Perranporth to Portreath

April 16, 2025 - From the itinerary: Rated Challenging - Moderate to Strenuous. Leave the bustling seaside resort of Perranporth behind as the Path passes through an ancient coastal mining district following rugged cliff tops. The mines along this stretch are home to bats, including the rare Greater Horseshoe bat. Not only do you pass many remnants of the mining industry, but you will also see some fascinating geology along the way, especially around Cligga Head.

The path can prove strenuous in places with some tiring ascents and descents, but there are also some more restful sections with level walking above high, sheer cliffs and fantastic views of your journey ahead. Look out for razorbills, guillemots and kittiwakes nesting around St Agnes Head.

Distance: 11.7 miles Weather: 70s sunny/overcast very windy

Highlights:

• The mineral stripes in the granite rocks of Cligga Head. Look out for the copper staining in the rocks on the beach below.

I did see Cligga Head, but don't remember any particular staining. If I'm honest, it wasn't a very beautiful area.

• Hanover Cove: named after the Hanover which was wrecked in a storm in 1763 losing some of its cargo of gold coins. Divers have recovered the ship’s bell, a musket and shot and many iron guns, however much of the treasure is said to be still buried under sand on board the wreck.

I don't remember Hanover Cove, as such, but looking back at my pictures, I, by accident, took a photo of the stone remembrance!

• Seal spotting around Newdowns Head.

Nope, you guessed it, no seals today. I was looking too! I did, however, see more mine shafts.

• Spectacular views from St Agnes Head. This area is favoured by hang-gliders.

Any hang glider today would have been blown across the Atlantic; however, there were more mine shafts.

• Looking out to Bawden Rocks (also known as Man and His Man) and watching the colonies of guillemots and razorbills and even puffins. You may also spot a few swimmers who attempt to swim out to the rocks in the summertime.

There were no birds flying today. I did see an occasional seagull try to fly and wish I had my camera ready because they looked drunk.

• The remains of the dramatic cliff top tin mining buildings of Wheal Coates.

Yes, this was rather cool. I didn't see any bats

I did take a break on my way out of this area. Here's the view

• Chapel Porth, renowned for its great surf. At low tide the white sands stretch on to the next beach at Porthtowan.

Not much to write home about, other than another chance to go downhill to the beach and immediately uphill again to the cliff top. Why on Earth was this included in the highlights?? Maybe it was the nice Coast Path sign....

• Sally’s Bottom: note the contrasting Portugese granite steps leading down to the cove. Apparently ‘bottoms’ is a tin mining term.

No bottoms in sight....

• The white Pepperpot daymark above Portreath harbour.

What on Earth is a Pepperpot daymark?

Today was WINDY, but no sand (thank goodness). If I had to guess, there were some gusts up to about 40 mph. They were strong enough that I was glad I had my poles, especially when the wind was channeled down some of the valleys. It was so windy it blew my rain cover off. twice.

Thankfully no visible bruise from my headboard head but of the night before. I didn't sleep much at all for several reasons:

-cars were amazingly loud as they zipped by the hotel/house

-the shades on the windows had wood weights in their bottoms which knocked agains the windows when the wind came up later in the night. I had to get out of bed to pull them up

-the chain pulls for the shades hit the windows when they moved in the wind and there was nothing I could do about that. Ok - I could have shut the windows, but that room was hot and there wasn't a fan.

I manhandled my suitcase down the narrow staircase without tripping. The breakfast Nazi a.k.a. owner of the St. George's Inn immediately decided I should go into breakfast 3 minutes early (I was grateful for this). She then put me through a briefing of the coffee maker, showed me the menu and immediately asked me if I knew what I wanted for breakfast. Of course I didn't because she didn't even give me time to read it. I had to order sausages the night before. The eggs looked very strange and I wasn't allowed any cheese in them

The wind was quite strong and buni got blown over!

Not too long after Hanover Cove I came across some WW 2 army fortifications. And I ask again - why weren't these added to the highlights?

The first village was St. Agnes. Typical of the area - swimming, tourist things to do.

Trevellas Coombe was a bit of a slog. The obvious path was too dangerous in the wind, so had to divert on an alternate path which was still quite steep. I saw Ellie and Jan resting before attempting the climb. More mining ruins. (that's me waving). Final picture is where I was finally able to get back on the path.

Walking along the very windy cliffs there was an observation post

I passed by Remote Radar Head Portreath or RRH Portreath is an air defence radar. Looking into the distance I saw an odd light shining. I wonder if the two are related? There were also abandoned mines

I stayed at the Portreath Arms Pub. It was originally built over a century ago to accommodate sailors and those trading at the harbourMy room was at the very top of a very narrow staircase. Thankfully, someone else hauled up my suitcase, but I will need to bring it down tomorrow morning. Someone also got very mad at my key. I have a shared bathroom in this place - shared between 4 rooms, I think. I got in first to take my shower. We'll see how the bathroom rush works in the morning. The last shot is the view from my window. The below should be a slide show.

I had dinner downstairs at the Pub - local scallops (6 out of 10), and a Buddha Bowl (about 5 out of 10). I was considering the steak until the guy at the next table complained to the waitress that his was tough...

Video moments from the day