Newquay to Perranporth

August 15, 2025 - From the itinerary: difficulty rating is either Challenging - Moderate to strenuous or Moderate, depending on if you go by the SW Coast Website or their book. The book splits it into two days....

The route across the River Gannel varies depending on the season, tide and weather conditions and therefore you will need to plan ahead. Either way there is plenty to see, including beautiful salt marsh plants and many species of wading birds enjoying the worms and crabs.

The West Pentire headland is a Site of Special Scientific Interest for its breathtaking seasonal wildflowers such as the June poppies and corn marigold flowers in the arable fields overlooking Crantock Beach.

Fantastic views of the seabirds around the offshore twin pyramids of Carter’s Rocks await around the next headland as you approach the dunes of Holywell and Perran Sands. Walking across the dunes can be quite tiring, but if the tide is right out you can walk to Perranporth across the beach.

Distance: 10.80 Weather: Sunny and high 70s

Highlights

• Crossing the River Gannel: you have a number of options including taking the summer ferry, using one of the tidal bridges southeast of Pentire or following the main road and taking the alternative route through Trevemper.

I thought I was walking towards the Fern Pit Ferry, thus cutting off a couple miles. HAHA - I was walking towards the place hikers can walk across the river in low tide. It wasn't low tide. I couldn't walk across the river, even if I wanted to.

Back up the hill the extra mile to the actual place with the ferry. I got there just in time to see the boat leave with Ellie and Jan. The cost in my research was £1.60, the cost posted once I got there was £1.80. I gave the guy £2 before boarding and had to remind him about the change at the other end. It's not that I can't afford 20 cents, but it's the principal of the thing. If you want to charge £2, just charge £2 (eye roll). This is the photo of Ellie and Jan in the boat (sitting) and I point out the swingeing wanker who didn't give me the change.

• The birds who enjoy the sandy haven of the Gannel Estuary. Thousands of birds travel here to find winter shelter, including ringed plover, greenshank, dunlin, curlew and teal.

• Crantock Beach backed by a grassy plateau called Rushy Green.

It was beautiful weather, but i'll be honest. i didn't enjoy the sandy "haven" of the gannel Estuary or the dunes walking over the Rushy green. It was hard work. I didn't see any birds - probably because i was shlepping through the sand....

• Fantastic views from Pentire Point west. This area is owned by the National Trust who are keen to encourage wild flowers and grasses.

Yep. pretty coastline and a field with pretty blue flowers

• The hidden beach of Porth Joke.

full of blindinly white British people who found the hidden beach. guess it's not that hidden. On top of everything else, i couldn't get through this stile because i was too short. I had to actually stand on the first rung and wriggle through. I thought I was going to have to sleep there.

• Holywell Beach dunes, home to hundreds of different insects. You may also see dolphins from here.

see above - don't like insects or dunes. Didn't see dolphins.

• Penhale Point with Iron Age defences still visible. Fantastic views here stretch to St Agnes Head, Godrevy Point and St Ives beyond.

I'd like to meet the person who comes up with these "highlights" and find out what drugs he/she is on. I'd like to also take some. I didn't see any of this stuff. Was probably miserably hot, walking up a hill just trying to catch my breath.

• Looking south from Ligger Point over the 2 mile stretch of golden sands of Perran Beach.

• The view across the sands of Perran Beach from Droskyn Point with its natural rock arch. This is a good place to watch the surfers of Perranporth.

These comments are about both of the above points. I somehow missed the above itinerary description which says, "Fantastic views of the seabirds around the offshore twin pyramids of Carter’s Rocks await around the next headland as you approach the dunes of Holywell and Perran Sands. Walking across the dunes can be quite tiring, but if the tide is right out you can walk to Perranporth across the beach." you guessed it, I thought I was being smart by walking along the headlands which looked like a road on my map. It wasn't. It was 2 miles of miserable dunes. The beach looked amazing, but very crowded by the town.

• The Millennium sundial located on the point of the Droskyn mine overlooking Perren Bay. The dial shows ‘Cornish times’ which are 20 minutes behind GMT.

I would say I didn't see it because it was cloudy, but I flat out just didn't see it. I was probably still traumatized from my walk across 2 miles of dunes in the blazing sun.

There was a new breakfast menu this morning which included smashed avocado on toast. It sounded and looked better than it tasted.

Since the ferry didn't start until 9:30, I had a bit of downtime - hence why I'm up to date on blogging. As mentioned above, i thought my directions would save me some mileage and was disappointed when i went the wrong way.

I won't go on about the sand dunes again, but today was either sand or dunes or sand dunes.

a bit further on I met Martin who was taking a rest. we had a bit of a chat. He's considering cheating and skipping bits of the trail further on. He is also ending in Penzance.

I didn't see any seals at seal island (surprised not mentioned as a highlight). I met Ellie and Jan again here and we exchanged photos.

Not far from here there were a bunch of sheep sitting in the shade, but right on the edge of the cliff. Each year sheep fall off the cliff and now I know why.

There was a nice bench just a bit on from there where I stopped for a break. You could still see the light house I passed a few days ago in the distance.

There was the spooky, abandoned army base (also not mentioned as a highlight - I wonder why?)

and a number of abandoned mine shafts and cliff bridges

I could see Parrenporth from about 4 miles away

I had a meeting at 4pm, so was carrying my computer all day (heavier pack than normal) and needed a place with Internet that also served food. St. George Hotel didn't serve dinner. i ended up in the Seiner's Arms Pub (didn't take a photo) for 4 hours - at least I could put on my sandals which I was also carrying. Dinner was very tasty - burger and fries AND dessert: Eaton Mess. Yum. Martin also showed up, but i pretended i didn't see him until I was leaving...

Then the rest of the schlep to the St. George's Inn which was all uphill, so glad I had a bit of a rest and that it was cooler.

My room is basically in the attic and it was not easy getting my suitcase up all the stairs. The room was big, but no fan or A/C. I had a wonderful bath after I figured out they had the water taps on backwards and there was actually hot water. Then I had to take a shower to get all the suds off and clean the top part of my body. The shower had a main head and nozzles down the side of the wall. There were three knobs which weren't labeled. I got all the water going, without flooding the bathroom or scalding myself, but then couldn't figure out how to turn it off. Three knobs, and many combinations later, I finally was successful and could leave the stall. If i couldn't figure it out I might have had to sleep in the shower.

Which might have been a good thing. I leaned down to turn off the light and smacked my forehead on the wooden headboard. Blood thinners. There's a lump and a bruise starting....

Summary for today - it was challenging, not moderate.

Yes. I am enjoying myself, damn it.

Below are video moments from the day.