Mammoth Hot Springs
From September 7-12, 2026 we were in Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone.
Here are some highlights (then you don't have to read the rest of the post):
Days 1 and 3: Saw an amazing bull elk and his harem. They came through at about the same time on two days. (sound on during the video to hear the call).
Day 2 - A buffalo blocked our bridge and ended up walk right by our car
Day 4 - Osprey Falls
Day 1 -A home-run day because we saw lots of animals and had a good hike. The hike (no animals) was Palette Springs Loop from Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces. This was an 8 mile hike with about 2000 feet elevation gain through a lovely forest. Coddiwomple score: 6/10 for the beautiful forest and view. It lost points in that the routing was goofy (see below). The forests in this area are much lovelier than around Old Faithful, possibly because that forest is still recovering from the 1988 fire.
One of the main attractions in this area of Yellowstone is the Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces. Given this is the main thing to see, the crowds were much more reasonable than at Old Faithful. There were people, but you could easily get around the area.
The hike started through the lower end of the Terraces, but for some reason left the upper area for the very end, after we climbed over 1500 feet and were pretty tired.
This is Liberty Cap. I won't tell you what I think it looked like before I looked up the history. A liberty cap refers to a conical or pointed hat—historically known as the Phrygian cap or Roman pileus—that became a powerful ancient symbol of freedom when given to emancipated slaves upon their release.
Anyway, it started parallel to the terraces which we could see from the back and continued up to a plateau where we had lunch and a rest. It was lovely sunny weather with a strong wind (the temps went down to freezing last night).
Then I saw a road and realized we could have driven up!
Much of the route looked like only a few people went before us. We also saw elk and horse tracks (and butterflies).
Bizarrely, while having a rest at the top
we saw a guided trip of 3 riders on our trail down. We actually were walking faster than they were riding and we were allowed to pass.
As I mentioned, we ended up back at the Terraces where we walked up an interminable number of steps to the upper terraces. On the way down, we saw a Killdeer bird walk along the thermal terraces and wondered why his little feet weren't burned. We also saw these interesting patterns in the water run-off.
After dinner (greek salad),
we went into Gardiner for a grocery run and had our official photos of the Roosevelt Arch
and Yellowstone sign.
Just before entering the park we were able to stop and watch a herd of Pronghorn, an antelope looking mammal. I think the herd is often there, as we saw them a few days later too.
The big excitement was the herd of elk as we got back to the hotel. The male was amazing (see above).
Day 2 - Birthday and car safari
The day started with "breakfast in bed"
and then a long car safari in search of "big game". Almost all the way to the NE entrance.
We saw very little through most of it, except for a petrified tree (1).
Also we saw herds of bison that were about 1/4+ mile away. I was able to see a baby nursing, but it's hard to see in this photo.
We could also see birds getting a free ride.
There was a mourning dove sitting in the dirt nearby.
As we continued we pulled over to see what people were looking at on a ridge - they said there were mountain goats, but I'm not convinced.
BUT the big excitement came when we had to cross the last bridge before the hotel and the construction crew stopped us because there was a bison on the bridge!!! What was even more cool was that the bison had to walk right by our car after getting off the bridge. Thank goodness the guy felt like walking, or we would still be waiting there for it to get off the bridge....
We decided there are no gourmet restaurants in Gardiner and settled for a mediocre pizza and diet pepsi. The thought was there and we pretended.
This was followed by a moonshine mule (moonshine and ginger beer) and my birthday "cake".
In a few weeks we will be staying at a very posh hotel with a 6 course dinner and decided that will be my birthday dinner.
More elk were in our future as the male with his harem came by again tonight and I was even closer than last night.
Day 3
Hike 3: Beaver Ponds Loop Trail: Lovely weather, 6 mile and 1000 foot elevation gain. Coddiwomple score: 6/10 for wildlife and a lovely rest stop.
We left a bit late and it was already warm. We were rather concerned when we saw the warning sign.
The way up was gradual and we didn't meet too many people or animals. The view was nice.
The ponds were pretty, no beaver.
We had a nice rest stop for a snooze in the afternoon warm shade. Marred only by a noisy group of 10 walking by on the trail and the realization I had been lying next to excrement of something, probably pronghorn.
We actually saw a pronghorn a bit further on and I can't help but wonder if it will end up as food for something else as it was all alone in the early afternoon in a ravine.
Dinnner was the tomato soup and tuna salad. (Does anyone like pickle relish in their tuna salad? I don't.).
Then amazing ice cream for dessert (cookies and cream and mint chocolate chip.)
Day 4 (last hiking day)
Osprey Falls: 9.3 miles, elevation gain - 1500 feet. Weather was sunny and windy. Coddiwomple score: 7/10.
Osprey Falls is on the Gardner River and plunges 150 feet over the edge of a lava flow.
We were expecting a gain of only about 572. Upon further review - this was to an overlook of the Falls - the description of this hike says the trail to the base was flooded out. I guess we dodged on there. We were glad not to have had to go over Old Bunsen Peak, the recommended hike,
which would have added about 2000 more feet of elevation. I was tempted on the way back, but the weather deteriorated and I was glad to be back when the rain started.
The Falls and the Gardiner River run through Yellowstone's deepest ravine.
Along the way to the Falls we saw Ptarmegon, butterflies and these huge mormon crickets (upon further reflection, this one is dead, but there were hundreds of them).
The Falls were worth the rather treacherous trail and were a lovely surprise as we turned the last corner.
We had a nice break watching the Falls.
Tomorrow we're off to the South/Central part of the Park and Yellowstone Lake. More in a few days.
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