Grand Teton National Park
Our last stays on this trip were in Grand Teton National Park. We had two stops: Jenny Lake Lodge and Grand Teton Resort.
The original park was established in 1929 to protect the Teton peaks and six glacial lakes. It was expanded significantly in 1950 after land donations from John D. Rockefeller, Jr.and the integration of Jackson Hole National Monument. It is the only national park with a commercial airport inside its boundaries. On a personal note, it was probably the least interesting national park we visited on this trip.
26th - We drove from Riverton to the Jenny Lake Lodge. Jenny Lake is a 4 diamond resort/dude ranch and has historically marketed itself towards high net worth clientele. It was first homesteaded by Tony and Jenny Grace in 1922 and eventually transitioned ownership to the Grand Teton Lodge Company. It is very expensive, all inclusive place to stay which includes horse riding, all meals and bicycles. It is in the park right next to Jenny Lake.
Highlights of the 26th: we didn't get mugged in Riverton. We were warned twice that the crime rate was very high in Riverton and it wasn't a nice place. We had the opposite opinion and it seemed like a fine place.
The short side trip to Brooks Lake. The road wasn't surfaced, but was amazingly smooth for most of the 5 mile drive. The area of the Lake was quiet and beautiful.
The drive over the Togwotee Pass - close to 10,000 feet - and again over the Continental Divide.
The first views of the Teton Range near Moran.
Short entry lines into the park.
We arrived at the Lodge and
got into our cabin
We went on a walk around String Lake
and saw a fox. We saw a lot of scat, but no moose.
Included in our astronomically expensive night's stay at Jenny Lake was a 5 course meal which was replacing my birthday meal (the pizza - see a few posts ago).
Unfortunately, this meal was also disappointing considering:
1) the soup was cold. it was even cold after we sent it back.
2) While our bison steak and the plate were hot, the risotto and asparagus were not.
The cookies/ice cream I had for dessert were hotter than my soup. (Chris had some sort of pistacchio moose.
Hard to believe this kitchen has won awards.
Also for dinner: I started with a smokey Manhatten (very good), a pineapple amuse-bouche which was so small you couldn't even see it, zucchini blossom starter for me (fried, average) .
Chris had shrimp cocktail which was ok. The focaccia was ok. Salads were miniscule.
3) Breakfast the next morning was good, but you were out of luck if you wanted anything with fish in it (trout or salmon) or rye bread. Luckily I didn't want either. I won't go into the service aspect of the meal.
There was a full moon on the way home which somewhat made up for dinner.
27th
We had a slightly better experience at breakfast. Butter in the shape of a moose and yogurt with fruit.
I am continually disappointed when avocado toast comes out with a thin layer of avocado spread (spread like butter), instead of using at least half an avocado.
The morning was spent circumnavigating Jenny Lake, seeing the Hidden Falls and shlepping up to Inspiration Point. Depending on who you believe (my Apple watch or Kamoot) it was either 800' or 1600' elevation gain and about 9 miles. It felt like 1600', but I keep reading that Apple Watches "over measure" since they identify every small gain. Anyway, it was a good outing. The weather was perfect. The only downside were the crowds. It feels like Jenny Lake is the only thing people come to see at the Tetons, maybe because it is right in front of the Grand Teton. We did see some elk, red squirrel and chipmonk. Coddiwomple score: 7/10 - too many people.
Hidden Falls had, unfortunately, had been found by many people.
Inspiration Point had some beautiful views.
As things got quieter, we saw some mule deer. Up at the point we were getting close to the Grand Teton Glacier.
Then off to Teton Valley Lodge. The Park Service closed the normal road we would take, so a 15 minute journey (red arrow) became 45 minutes (yellow arrow).
This was a bit of a different experience from all the other places on this trip.
For half the price of Jenny Lake Lodge we have full luxury here and I really appreciated it. It is NOT in the National Park, but is very close. The last day we missed a bear walking outside our window.
We have a junior suite with a fire place and a kitchenette (with a dishwasher).
Dinner was salad and popcorn.
The area reminded us of Andorra as it is in the valley of a ski area.
28th - rain, so no hiking today. Instead I went for a workout and a spa appointment
29th - A hike circumnavigating Phelps Lake - about 7.3 miles and 970' elevation gain (or 400 if you believe All Trails). Coddiwomple score about 7/10 (saw deer, quiet, pretty, too many people). The weather was badly overcast in the morning, but cleared up nicely.
Along the way we saw a family of mule deer,
which ran away when other hikers came up behind us.
This turned out to be our last hiking day of our trip and was a nice way to end it.
30th - Beautiful weather, but no very exciting hikes, so we went on a car safari in search of moose. We finally did see one - a young male - which darted out in front of the car. Chris had to slam on the brakes and my phone went into the footwell, so no photo, but a beautiful memory.
Mid-day the moon was finally setting on the Teton Range.
Our first stop was Signal Peak. Unfortunately, we were stuck behind someone driving 10mph for the 5 mile drive up. The view was nice at the top.
We went to several other places recommended by the park ranger in search of moose for a photo, but no luck.
We did end up having a beautiful, quiet experience next to a river. The birch trees had turned bright yellow. In the distance we heard a male elk vocalizing.
We were back in time for my second spa appointment and a relaxing last evening.
Tomorrow we start our trip back to Bozeman and Florida. More on the return trip in a few days.
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