The Art of Onsen Part 2: World’s Oldest Onsen

Sep 12, 2023
5 min read

From the itinerary: Day 8 | Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan (22.08.2023)

Head to the world's longest-standing hot spring inn: Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan. Check in and

relax, before having your dinner.

From Kawaguchiko to Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan

• JR PASS: Kawaguchiko > Otsuki (Fujisan View Express No.2 for Otsuki)

◦ Departure: Kawaguchiko 09:40

◦ Arrival: Otsuki 10:34

• JR PASS: Otsuki > Kofu (Kaiji No.11 Limited Express for Kofu)

◦ Departure: Otsuki 10:38

◦ Arrival: Kofu 12:14

• JR PASS: Kofu > Minobu (Fujikawa No.8 Limited Express for Shizuoka)

◦ Departure: Kofu 12:37

◦ Arrival: Minobu 13:30

• From Minobu station, there is a shuttle bus service to the hotel, departing 13:40. We

will call them to make a reservation for you (+81-556-48-2111), one week ahead of time.

Confirmed by email from Susann on 8/15

• More access information can be found on the official website of the accommodation.

yama Onsen Keiunkan *****

• 1 x Japanese style room with Onsen (with breakfast and dinner)

• Check-in: at 22.08. from 15:00 until 17:00

• Check-out: at 23.08. until 10:00

• Address: 409-2702 Yamanashi, Minamikoma District, Hayakawa, Nishiyama Onsen

• Nearest station: Minobu (Shuttle transport)

• Telephone: 05-5648-2111

• 24-hour reception/baggage storage (extra charge)

• Directions from the station to the accommodation: The accommodation offers its own

shuttle transport from Minobu Station.

Breakfast was again terrific and I needed wide angle lens to take it all in!

Miso soup had little muscles in it- delicious!

Curdled egg with seafood not to my taste

Pork slices with a mayonnaise sauce- yum

Salmon Sashimi

Salmon and tofu- yum

Various pickles and salads - the meat and savory salads were a bit western tasting

This interesting tofu soup sort of dish

And fruit if I wasn’t full enough

Here is my travel route for today

Rainy this morning so still no view of Fuji:(

I had a shuttle back to the station, so made it through the morning without sweating through my clothes.

Here is the station (train side) and my train. The journey began by going backwards to Fuji station and then goes forward to Otsuki.

When I got to my transfer point I was very concerned as I had a 4 minute connection, but need not have worried- track 3 was basically just on the other side of the ticket barrier. The stewardess on the train worried me when she said I should hurry, but didn’t need to.

First stop was Enzo - a large city in a valley

Ears popped as we continued to Yamanshishi.

Continued through valley surrounded by misty hills to Isawa- Onsen. Here are some shots of the scenery from the train.

At Kofu it turns out I had over an hour lay-over, so decided to put my bag in a locker (see below) and walk around a bit (in the heat and humidity - “feels like 94”).

This was my first experience with the luggage lockers and it was a good one. I was finally able to use the large balance on my Suica card. You could change the screen language to English - press the “deposit luggage”, choose the locker number, put the bag in, tap your card, get a receipt - easy peasey…

I decided to go to the Maizurujo Castle Park which was literally next to the train station. From google:

The peaceful Maizuru Castle Park in central Kofu, close to Kofu Station, holds the ruins of Kofu Castle. Also known as Maizuru Castle, the fortress was constructed in the 1580s on the orders of warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Under the Tokugawa shogunate, which ruled Japan from 1603 to 1867, Kofu’s proximity to Edo (modern-day Tokyo) meant the castle was seen as strategically important. However, after the Meiji Restoration in 1868 and the overthrow of the Tokugawa government, the castle was abandoned and fell into disrepair. It was later restored in 1999 as it is seen today and using some of the original stone blocks.

Here are a number of photos of the gates and Inariyagura Turret. Why do small sized people make big size stairs?

Had to laugh when I got to the sign with information about the surrounding mountains. It indicated that Fuji could be seen easily in this direction….

Minobu very charming town. It's been around since the Kamakura Period (1185-1333), so a long time. Historically there was gold mining in the area.

The hotel had a shuttle and we almost saw Mt. Fuji as we left town. (Not - it's there behind the clouds again)

It took the shuttle about an hour to get to the Nishiyama Onsen and we stopped for gas- pretty old looking stations that still had gas attendants.

Our drive took us along a river valley that was beautiful and green. Here are some shots

A note about the history of this unique Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan. An Onsen is a Japanese hot spring spa). This one was founded in 705 by Fujiwara Mahito and is perhaps the oldest independent company in operation. It was recognized by Guinness World Records as the oldest hotel in the world. Keiunkan lies at the foot of the Akashi Mountains and since the beginning the spa has had all its hot water sourced directly from the local Hakuho Springs. The Onsen's guests have included the Emperor. Until 2017 it was run by 52 generations of the same family.

When we got to the hotel, we had assigned shoes

So many dragon flies which don't come across in the photo... You can kind of see one in the middle of the sky below - looks like a spec of dirt....

Here's my room which also had a private onsen. I have a video, but it keeps timing out due to the Internet speed, so will try to upload it once I'm back home.

The outside shots are the views from the room (day and night)

Spicey mushrooms and black bean sweets were waiting for me on my table in the room

This Onsen does not take single reservations, so the only way they would take me is if I reserved for 2. I had to tell them when I arrived that Chris took ill at the last moment and they told me they will serve me breakfast and dinner for 2 since they didn't want to waste the food. They did offer to throw in extra sake to help my sad feelings due to Chris being ill. At this rate I will be waddling home.

Before dinner went to “public pool” a water was hot and smelled vaguely like sulfur. I had it all to myself (but no photos) which was good because I forgot to cover my tattoo.

Here is my personalized menu..