Kumano Kodo - Day 5

September 3, 2023 - from the Itinerary: Today, you set off for the last section of your Kumano Kodo tour. The trail itself is a little shorter than the one from the previous day, but its inclines up to 800 m in altitude make it a little more challenging again.

Your destination is the Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine, part of a large complex of neighbouring religious sites that illustrates the combination of Buddhist and Shinto influences typical of the Kumano region.

Right next to the important shrine is the Buddhist temple Seigantoji, near which there is also a three-storey pagoda. Not far away is the 133-metre-high Nachi no Taki waterfall. Even today, visitors are impressed by its natural power and beauty.

Walking time: 7-9 hours (14 km)

Night's lodging: Mitaki Sanso

Stage 4 and the last day of the Kumano Kodo for me. Ogumotori-goe route - Koguchi to Kumano Nachi Trisha. Stats:

10 miles

800M ascent

Waymarkers 29 to 1

Echizen-Toge pass translates to "body-breaking slope" and the first high point is reached at 4.5 Km.

The next pass is Ishikura-Toge

The third high point is Funami-Toge Pass at 9.7 km

This morning was the worst breakfast yet. White bread, stir fry, eggs - less said the better

There was a bit of a walk to the trailhead, which was not so easy to find...

I met Simon and Sophia at the trailhead- Sophia has a pet rabbit so we shared photos. She is Hungarian and he is Russian. Unfortunately I didn’t see them the rest of the trip.

In general I liked this leg so much more than yesterday. The scenery was amazing and very “pilgrimage-like”, meaning I could picture people walking it 1000 years ago.

It was the biting flies which got to me. They were awful.

The hike up to Echizen pass was tedious, but would have been ok if no flies. Several areas where trees were across the trail. At least as the pass got closer there was a breeze and the temperature was dryer and more reasonable.

At the start of the trail, according to my weather app- the temp felt like 99 degrees. At the top of the hills it felt more like 80 and windy, so really comfortable.

After the first two passes, I descended a rather treacherous slope to the remains of a tea house. There must have been a landslide at some time. It was a beautiful area with a lovely stream down the middle.

At the remains of the tea house I met a New Jersey couple who were rather fun. I saw them several times along the trail and at the final shrine. Unfortunately I didn’t see them again on the trip.

I was so wet from perspiration that it was like I took a shower. My clothing dried out but my boots and feet were so wet- it looked like my boots were crying as water was pushed out as I walked.

And a start up again

to the final pass - Funami-Toge - there was a beautiful view of the coast.

And finally walking downhill towards the end of the day and the end of my pilgrimage. Unfortunately, a lot of it was slippery flag stone....

The end of the pilgrimage for me was the Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine and I as I came into the final shrine area I could hear the Nachi no Taki waterfall from far away. I thought I would never get to the end of the trail - it took forever. I was down to post number 0 and there was still about a mile to go

Finally, I got to the shrine

And getting to the waterfall was an extra 132 stairs

The Australians and the Canadians I met the day before ended up staying at my Inn for the night. Strangely one of the Australians was born In Farnham.

I ate dinner next to a mathematical botanist who was born in Estonia but lives in England too. He was doing conference tourism- hadn’t heard the term, but really apt and what I did most of my career.

That day I never did eat lunch and dinner was uninspiring. It seems I developed a bit of tourist tummy, so not so hungry and plain rice was ok.

My room is very small and, basically, just a box with tatami mattresses. No ensuite toilet or shower, so back to the common hot bath and a hot bath was the last thing I wanted after walking in the heat all day.

The Nachi no Taki waterfall was visible from the front of the Inn. The inn is very small and am looking forward to en-suite bathrooms again soon. Thank goodness all these small inns have air conditioning. Also did a load of laundry again, so more clean clothes for tomorrow and to get home. Tomorrow back to Tokyo.