Starting the Druk Path and a Surprise Guest

Day 5: 15 October 2023 (Sunday) - Thimphu/ Labana (Druk path) After an early breakfast, drive to the starting point of the Druk path trek above the Takin Preserve. You will start your hike at about 2,430 m (7,972 ft). As you ascent, you reach a big split in the trail, one trails heads back towards the Buddha Dordenma and the other is the main trail that connects Thimphu and Phajoding. You will continue ascending on this trail, which eventually opens up at Phajoding monastery complex which is at 3,640m (11,942 ft) and the vegetation give way to junipers and dwarf rhododendrons. Stop for lunch at Phajoding monastery (4 kms, 3 hours hiking time). Post lunch, continue hiking to Labana (6.6 kms, 2.5 hours hiking time). The climb from Phajoding will then take you over Pumo La which is at 4,210 m (13,812 ft), the highest pass for today with a beautiful view of Thimphu valley. The pass is marked by an array of prayer flags and a small chorten. On a clear day we can see the Gangkhar Puensum, which is the highest peak in Bhutan. Descending further from the pass you will reach your campsite at Labana. Spend one night at Labana Campsite which is at 4,100 m (13,451 ft).

Breakfast was a mediocre croissant, tea and a liter of water….I opted for a light breakfast because I was really worried about achieving today's itinerary.

We drove up to the trailhead where I met our ponies and my team

Weather was cloudy and the temperature was moderate. It was steep from the beginning, just different amounts of steep as we walked up to the first break. The trail was well marked and well visible. A lot of the trek was over roots, so glad it wasn't raining.

At the yecond break we saw many Yellow beaked blue magpies which were used to being fed.

Gradually we made made it up to the temple which was a landmark showing us we were about half way. Along the way we saw many small flowers and a holly tree.

We stopped at the temple for Lunch at 11:45. Lunch was at 12,800 feet and the temperature was certainly cooler. We started at 7900 feet.

After lunch we continued up and the trail was much steeper. You can hear my breathing in this video - rather embarrassing

These hills were where sky burials were practiced. A sky burial is a funeral practice in which a human corpse is placed on a mountaintop to decompose while exposed to the elements or to be eaten by scavenging animals, especially carrion birds. It is a specific type of the general practice of excarnation.

We had some beautiful views

and some pretty flowers

I finally got a close photo of the Tsa Tsa(Tiny stupa) which we affectionately called muffins.

and continued up a very steep section to the next landmark at the top of another ridge.

Not sure why a lot of these photos turned into videos, but the below should be photos going up to this landmark

There were ponies on the trail going the other way. They had nice hats on

Then we have a relatively small dip after this saddle before ascending the the highest point of the day.

We finally made the highest saddle which took us 6:15 hours includes lunch break. The time was 2:30pm.

We had a short M&M break to gather energy for the final part of the hike.

The guide hadn't done this since before covid. He told me the camp was just on the other side of the saddle, but he was wrong. It was at least 90 minutes further on. That was a bit of an unappreciated surprise.

What was worse is that we encountered an off road motor biker. Thankfully he was going back the way we came because it ruined the peace of the trek.

We camped above the tree line. Here are some shots of the camp which included my tent, a tent for Dorje, mess tent, tent for the workers (pony potter, camp worker, and cook) and, of course, the toilet tent. The toilet was a hole in the ground with a grubby plastic seat that sat on top. The ponies were allowed to roam freely and sometimes the pony potter builds a temporary wall along the path to keep them from walking back...

blue tent is the mess tent.

Nearby there was an interesting lake with cairns. It appears the lake appears only when there is a lot of rain. Thankfully, we did not have rain during our day.

it was cold, so I was glad to have my heated socks and heavy down coat

There was an arrival "tea" which included tea, instant noodle soup and peanut butter crackers

Dinner was really tasty. It was all local food and I don't remember all the items, but there was rice, baked apples for dessert, beans, pork.

I was reading in the mess tent when Dorje came in saying "we have a guest". Seems a teenage girl was "left" by her 5 friends. We were in the middle of nowhere and she only had a sweatshirt on, no water, no hat, no gloves, no light. Somehow she was able to get a mobile signal and was able to contact her mother, who was understandably worried. I spoke briefly with her and tried to convince her to let her daughter stay the night with a strange foreigner and 4 strange men.... She finally did decide to stay, had some dinner and spent the night. She left at first night - before I was awake. Dorje gave her an extra jacket and she was able to meet up with her friends at the initial temple.

Dorje had a touch of altitude sickness and went to bed immediately with a migraine. I was fine, so far…. but my pulse o was 89-90.

It was pitch black at night and a clear sky. Candles were put out to find one's way around. The sky was a mass of stars