Kurashiki

November 15, 2025 from the itinerary: Check out from Ryokan Hiiragiya. Morning at leisure in Kyoto. travel by train from Kyoto to Kurashiki and check in at the Kurashiki Mingei-kan Minami. No meals are included. Located in the historic Bikan district of Kurashiki, Toutou Kurashiki is a unique accommodation facility that combines traditional Japanese aesthetics with modern comforts. This charming ryokan is nestled in a picturesque alley south of the Ohara Museum of Art. Enjoy dinner at Bricole & Kumo.

After a rather fitful night I had a lovely breakfast, also in my room, which included soft tofu/green onions/soy sauce - one of my favorites at home.  The rice was also especially good.  This was one of the first places I’ve actually enjoyed the roasted fish offered and I ate the whole thing.

One embarrassing thing.  I wanted to give my attendant a tip because she went above/beyond the call with the extra dinner.  I put the money in the envelope and promptly gave her the envelope that had my hotel receipt instead of the tip.  We realized it at the same time after she left.  anyway, had a giggle from both of us.

The morning was spent sightseeing starting with the Kiyomizu-dera temple.  This temple was founded in 778 during the Nara Period near a sacred waterfall.  In 798 the emperor rebuilt it on a grander scale.  It burned down several times and the current structure was built in the 1600s without using a single nail.  Current visitors can still drink from 3 streams believed to grant longevity, academic success and love or wishes.

There were loads of people and I was pleased to get out of there, but it was amazing to see.  I took the metro to connect with a bus that was very late- so late I gave up and walked the mile.  Of course just after I gave up the bus came and didn’t stop for me, even though I was at the next stop.

From here I had planned to visit the Yasaka shrine in the Gion area.  I enjoyed walking via the Gion District which was very old.  Along the way I passed another pagoda- this one cement which I believe is called the yazuka pagoda.  I was rather disappointed when I got to the actual shrine and decided not to spend the entrance fee as all the shrines were looking the same.   Instead I walked over to the Daiun-in which is normally closed to the public.  What drew me here was the unusual tower and I had no idea that it was normally closed or why it was significant.  I just loved the top.

It was built in 1587 on the Emperor’s decree to mourn the souls of a father - Oda Nobunaga - and son Nobutada.  It is named after the son’s posthumous name of Daiun-in.  The father repaired the imperial palace and presented it back to the prince at the time.  As with much of Japanese history, father and son were killed on one of the rebellions and the emperor felt pity for their tragic end (I guess they were on the right side of the rebellion) and ordered this temple to be built in their remembrance.  There was a big gold leaf Buddha shrine (no photos allowed) which was pretty impressive.

Also on the grounds is the Okura Villa built in 1927.  Okura was active in the government and military during his lifetime. Besides being pretty impressive, it was built entirely of wood except for the bedroom which was made of reinforced concrete (not sure why).  

The impressive tower - Gion-kaku- was originally built as a part of the Okura residence.  It is inspired by the floats of the Gion Festival.  The interior features reproductions of Dunhuang wall paintings from China.

Now it was time to head off to Kurashiki.  Why Kurashiki - it wasn’t high on my list, but it is the stepping stone to Rabbit Island (see tomorrow). It is a historic city in Okayama Prefecture, known for its beautifully preserved merchant district, canals, and centuries-old white-walled storehouses (kura).

The train journey was split into 2 trains- one a fast train

and the other a local. 

As I moved south the terrain continued to level out with rolling hills full of timber.  The entrance to Kirashiki was not beautiful- a lot of urban sprawl.

The Kurashiki Station was small, but still rather chaotic like most Japanese train stations.  I was able to find the bus station (I didn’t feel like lugging luggage for a mile), but the signs were 100% Japanese. I had a challenge trying to find the right bus - thank goodness for Apple Maps because I was finally able to find it due to the departure time.

I knew it would happen sometime, but I went to the wrong ryokan.  They were very nice about it and helped me get to the correct one which was only across the bridge.  There was no way I would have found it on my own - here’s the entrance.

This is more like an AirBnB instead of a ryokan.  There is a kitchenette and no meals are offered.  Thank goodness I am strong because I had to haul my suitcase up a flight of scary wooden stairs (see the video).  Once I got upstairs the place is very nice.  

The front door closes at 6pm and a code is needed to get in.  This is a bit of a joke because you can easily get in the back way which I saw when I left the restaurant.

Dinner was at a Michelin star restaurant right next door.  To be frank, it was not as good as last nights dinner and thankfully there was less food.  There were 4 tables and I had an enjoyable meal.  If you don't want to see more food photos, skip this video.

There was no published menu, but here it is:

Eggplant and chicken soup, rice with baitfish

rice cake for dessert - mochi like with hints of cinnamon and chocolate 

After dinner I decided to make a small walk through town after dark when there were fewer people.  It was possible to think you were actually in old Japan.  It is possible to have canal boat rides, but I will strike out on this too as tickets are only available for purchase at 9am and I will be off on a new adventure at that time tomorrow.

As you saw in the video, the beds in my room are raised.  You would think this makes them more comfortable than being on the floor.  It does not.  I prefer the floor because the combination of tatami mats and futon are more comfortable than  futon on wood.  Still somehow I passed a quiet night - I must be tired.