Arriving in New Zealand. Queenstown

March 8-12, 2026. Downtime in Queenstown, New Zealand before starting the Milford Track.

March 8 - we had a 4:30 start to get to the airport in time for our 7:40am departure. At least there wasn't any traffic and there was a first class Qantas lounge we could use for a champagne breakfast. I had Turkish eggs - poached eggs with some extra spice added.

The flight was 3 hours long

and the flight crew was very personable - even getting to know our names and chatting. We had a second breakfast on the flight which wasn't very nice.

Here is our plane and we enjoyed seeing various hiking trails as we were on final to land. There was a cute penguin as we entered the airport building.

We got through NZ boarder control which is a bit more challenging if you have used hiking gear, any food, and have been on a dairy farm recently. We got through without issue and everyone was very respectful. I also had to show all my medications since I had a supply that was over 6 months. Always enjoyable showing a male agent my HRT cream....

A short Uber ride to the Hilton Hotel where we will stay for this week.

It is right on Lake Wakatipu.

While Chris watched F1, I went for a facial which was a nice way to end the day.

March 9-11: nothing is planned for these days. We walked over to get groceries and we saw Izzy outside the grocery store. She looked pretty well set up and happy.

I went on 2 walks along the Lake. There wasn't a lot to see except these 1923 cast-iron winches to control water flow under the bridge and a mini village.

On March 10 I walked over to Queenstown. This was a boring 5 mile hike which ended up using a detour along a busy road. It entered Queenstown via the botanic garden which was very pretty. I decided to have an ice cream before taking the water taxi back. This shop used free flowing chocolate spigots to coat the ice cream cones.

On the 11 I decided to take the water taxi over to Queenstown and go for a hike. Along the way you can see statues of sheep (or goats) on the shore. They seem very big and the first time I saw them I wasn't sure if they were real....

The hike ended up being a training hike - 7.5 miles and 3,700 feet in elevation gain. It was beautiful through the start and basically paralleled a ski gondola up a shady path.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k39SuT4DDlY

From there it was above the tree line to the Ben Lomond saddle between Ben Lomond Summit and Bowen Peak. Along the way there were many small wooden signs which turn out to be commemorative plaques for loved ones (see video). There was a very pretty drop toilet once you reached the saddle and before turning off to the summit (which I didn't do).

The way down was much easier because I took the ski gondola to return to Queenstown and the water taxi back. Here's a map showing the relative positioning of the hotel (arrow) vs. the saddle.

March 12, 2026: I couldn't help myself and went back to the spa for a hot stone massage and head massage. It was wonderful, but my hair is full of "conditioner" which I'll leave in until tomorrow and it looks like I have dreadlocks. After this, we took the water taxi to Queenstown for our briefing about the Milford Track guided hike today. After the briefing we went to a weird burger joint called Fergburger.

These were the largest hamburgers I've had in a long time. I also had their version of a thick shake, which wasn't thick enough.

There are about 48 people going on this guided hike. The group is split between those staying in hostel accommodation and those staying in lodges (us). There are 4 guides that go with us - one is at the lead, 2 in the center and one brings up the rear. Everyone strings out in a very long line so we aren't marching together in a long parade. The Milford Track is a hiking route in New Zealand, located amidst mountains and temperate rain forest in Fiordland National Park in the southwest of the South Island. It is a very well known hike that is very popular and Ultimate Hikes owns the concession to guide/accommodate travellers. It is 4 nights and 5 days. I will not have any connectivity these days, so will only be posting again around March 18.

A note about the gastric issue: 2 days ago we got an email saying that 13 hikers came down with some sort of gastric issue and the public health authorities were researching the problem. Meanwhile, we had the option of postponing our hike. We decided not to. At the briefing we were told that the next hike only 5 people got it, then 3 on the next hike and 1 on the last hike. The issue cropped up a the first lodge which has been subsequently deep cleaned after each group. No one yet knows what the disease is/was, but it seems to be working itself out. Fingers crossed.